"The California part is the emphasis on freshness and quality of local ingredients. The American part is a tribute to our melting pot of cultures."

The Monterey restaurant's menu underlines this philosophy, with heartland classics like meatloaf,baby back ribs, crab cakes, and one of the house favorites-pork chops with bourbon-molasses glaze and braised red cabbage.

Kimmel likes to feature game dishes, often spit-roasted. Pheasant, wild boar, rabbit, venison, and duck all show up regularly on his menu. Entrees are finished eclectically, with seasonings and styles ranging from Cajun and Chinese, to Mediterranean and Mexican.

"I think you really have to be flexible," says the Chicago native. Eight years ago, armed with a degree from the Culinary Institute of America, Kimmel headed west, where his fast-forward management style was enlisted to guide the expanding empire of the landmark 1917 restaurant into the 21st century. With a $4 million annual business in Tarpy's lunches and dinners alone, flexible just could be the secret to his survival, as well as success.

"I've got three sous chefs, 20 people in the kitchen, 60 waiters and a huge catering and banquet staff,"

says Kimmel with a grin. All this talent fuels seven dining rooms that can serve 400 patrons, plus private banquet chambers that are booked year-round for weddings, meetings and receptions.

"In a restaurant this size, you have to keep every room booked," says Kimmel. And he credits the consistency of Tarpy's cuisine with doing just that. "The core menu stays the same, but there are daily menu additions in each category-appetizer, entree and dessert. I've tried to make sure that the menu includes something for everybody, from a great burger for lunch, all the way to a grilled fillet for upscale dining."

Kimmel attributes his devotion to computer-enhanced organization for keeping the large menu under control. "You want to be careful designing the menu," he cautions.

 

"We want repeat customers to find their favorites- to feel comfortable-yet, we also need to keep things interesting for them."

Kimmel's health-consciousness affects everything, from the fresh herbs and edible flowers that distinguish presentation to his rapport with local growers, purveyors and foragers.

"We feature vegetables from Salinas Valley growers, many of whom also are our dinner patrons." Kimmel has worked carefully to cultivate local producers. "Big Sur chanterelles-people like to see that on a menu. We try to get our fresh fish right out of the bay and we emphasize our fine Monterey wines."(Tarpy's wine list earned a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence).

Kimmel - a business partner in the union of Tarpy's and its sister establishments, Carmel's Rio Grill and Monterey's Montrio - swears by organization. Menu planning occupies a lot of this chef's time and talent. Once fine-tuned, each and every new recipe is entered on the computer under the appropriate category.(Click here to view Tarpy's Menu:Dinner, Lunch)

"All the recipes, everything to make each dish, are right there art my fingertips. You've got to be organized in this business."