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A
Neighborhood Approach to Dining
To
spend time with San Francisco Peninsula restaurant magnate Greg
St. Claire is to
be engulfed by a wave of:Appetites-for good food, fine wine,
exotic art, engaging conversation...for life itself.
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Greg
St. Claire with his wife Ann.
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In
less than a decade, St. Claire has developed a mini-empire on
the Peninsula as head of the Avenir Restaurant Group, with a half-dozen
eateries showcasing a wide array of cuisines from around the world.
While most restaurateurs develop chains based on a single concept
that is then duplicated in different locales, St. Claire has eschewed
the cookie-cutter approach to expansion for an eclectic and innovative
business strategy that reflects his varied culinary interests
and artistic passions. The Avenir line-up includes: Mistral (regional
French with California accent)in Redwood Shores; A Tavola (California-Italian)in
San Carlos; Nola (Cajun, Creole and Southwestern Fusion)in Palo
Alto; Kingfish (Soulful Southern Food)in San Mateo; and Milagros
(Oaxacan) and D'Asaro (Italian) in Redwood City.
A
Renaissance man who oversees virtually every aspect of his business
enterprise-from interior decoration to hiring head chefs to working
out the details of the cutlery-St. Claire opened his first restaurant,
Mistral, with his longtime partner Tim Fabatz in 1993, and they've
been on a roll ever since. "Avenir" literally means
"the future" in French, and St. Claire says they're thinking
about more restaurants featuring different cuisines in the years
ahead. "I get bored easily," St. Claire admits. "The idea of rolling
out the same concept in a chain just doesn't work for me. I have
a diverse group of friends and I have a passion about food. The
restaurants reflect who I am."
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Customers
enjoying the unique New Orleans style of Kingfish Restaurant
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At
a time when economic factors have created challenging conditions
in the
food industry, St. Claire's restaurant
philosophy has proven remarkably
successful. He emphasizes a "neighborhood
approach" to
all aspects of his business, from site selection to marketing
to hiring personnel. St. Claire,
who was born and raised on the peninsula in Woodside and Portola
Valley and who now lives with his family in nearby San Carlos,
points out how important it is to accurately assess the marketability
of a restaurant concept in a given locale. "You need to look at
a neighborhood and comprehend what the neighborhood needs are,"
he notes. "You can't guess what they are. And you simply can't
impose an idea. You need to look closely at a neighborhood and
evaluate what's a good fit. And you have to be willing to adjust.
If you don't, you're doomed to fail." All significant decisions
regarding Avenir restaurants are neighborhood-based. "We rely
on local customers and local business," St. Claire stresses.
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Enjoy
a friendly atmosphere at Atavola's.
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"Rather
than spending money on advertising, we put it into local charities
like Lucille Packard's Children Hospital and Ronald McDonald
House. We believe in our community and give back to our community.
It's a belief in karma-if you do good, good will come back to
you. I've found that our best advertising is word-of-mouth."
St.
Claire also emphasizes what he calls "neighborhood pricing."
He strives to keep menu prices down so that his various restaurants
will develop a repeat clientele. Entrees generally range from
$8 to $20. "Don't go for the immediate big sale, go for long-term
loyalty," he offers. "When we have a banquet, we don't charge
for people who don't show up. Ever. Why would you? We want
people to return. There's nothing better than regulars."
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Behind
the scenes, Avenir-which also includes partners Katherine
Kirkbride (director of operations), longtime partner
Fabatz and Chris Fernadez (directors of culinary operations)
-is a tightly run business enterprise. "I worked at restaurants
where they didn't run a spreadsheet or inventory," St. Claire
notes. "In tight times, you have to run your restaurants really
well. We look at revenues on a daily basis. We crunch numbers
weekly. Our monthly financial statements are very detailed.
We believe in solid accounting. The entire company is networked."
The Avenir group has also instituted full-on profit sharing
for all of its employees. "This creates buy-in from everyone,"
St. Claire notes. "We feel it gives us a competitive edge."
One of the most important staffing decisions a restaurateur
makes is hiring a head chef, and St. Claire says that the
key factor in making this decision, for him, is "practical
experience." He notes that while formal training in a culinary
institute can contribute significantly to a head chef's qualifications,
it's not the deciding factor. "A lot of people can make fantastic
food," he observes, "but not everyone can do it for a profit."
Creating a positive work environment is another key ingredient
to Avenir's success. When hiring other staff, St. Claire returns
once again to
his neighborhood ethos.
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A
few chefs having fun at Nola's
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"I
like to hire people from the community,who
know the community, who care about the community," he says.
"I also look for people who really love the business. Restaurant
work is supposed to be fun. We try to inspire our staff to treat
the restaurant like it's their living room."
On
a lovely sunny afternoon this summer in Redwood City, I
joined with Ledyard Director of Purchasing and Marketing,
Tim Jenkins, and Regional Sales Director, Michael Forman
(who has worked closely with St. Claire in developing sound
purchasing strategies at all of the Avenir restaurants)
for lunch at the newest jewel in Avenir's crown, D'Asaro.
Redwood City's renowned downtown archway announces "Climate
Best by Government Test," and it was indeed a glorious day,
so we opted to sit outside in D'Asaro's hospitable patio
area-though not before I had a chance to wander around inside
the restaurant, which had the feel of a rustic Italian villa.
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Enjoy
a delicous meal from D'Asaro's open Kitchen.
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Gorgeous
tiles frame D'Asaro's open kitchen, while luscious plates
of mushrooms and onions invite customers from the counter.
As a fourth generation California Italian (on my mother's
side), I was immediately drawn to the vast array of Italian-American
family portraits on the walls along with lovely landscape
photographs from Italy. The decor of the restaurant is truly
a feast for the eyes. Once joined by St. Claire at our table
(he was actually talking to his father, who was dining nearby),
I learned that the restaurant was named for a beloved family
member, the late Steve D'Asaro, and that the photographs
were of him and his family. That intimate sense of warmth
and authenticity carried through all aspects of the D'Asaro
experience-as it does at all six of the Avenir restaurants.
D'Asaro's menu was simple, straightforward and reasonably
priced. I was impressed by the extensive wine selection
and by regional descriptions of the wines from Italy. I
also noted that every single Avenir staff member we encountered,
at both D'Asaro and nearby Milagros, was helpful, courteous
and professional. We opted for a family style meal that
included salads, bruschetta and a pizza topped with incredible
heirloom tomatoes, along with a tasty Merlot. I experienced
something that I have rarely felt at an Italian restaurant-I
felt like I was eating at home with my mother, aunts and
uncles. Not only was the food that good, but the ambiance
was familial as well.
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experience
a breathtaking view from while dining at Mistral Restaurant.
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During
our meal, I sensed
St. Claire's powerful passion for food. He has worked in
the restaurant business since he was 16, and if there is
one thing he has learned it is this: "People come to a restaurant
to have fun, to be entertained. Our business is to provide
our customers with that experience. That's what keeps them
coming back." D'Asaro's desert list reflected this approach.
It was lively and fun-we ordered a variety of gellatos,
tiramisu and some superb espresso-all of which served as
a perfect cap for a memorable dining experience. (I wasn't
surprised to find out later that D'Asaro had recently received
an excellent review from The San Francisco Chronicle.) After
lunch, I asked St. Claire what was the essential key to
creating a successful restaurant. "Good food isn't enough,"
he reflected. "Neither is good service, or the decor. It
takes the entire combo, the whole package, and that's what
we strive for at all our restaurants."
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